365 Days in Korea

Peace Out (Text)

2011-12-28T05:56:00.000-08:00

One year ago today I began my Korean teaching adventure, and it's unbelievable to me that my time in this country has come to a close. Looking back, I feel fortunate that I've had so many diverse and exciting experiences - visiting fascinating places in both Korea and other locales in Asia, attempting to teach scores of students to speak English correctly and making friends with people from across the globe. Will I return to Korea? My students have begged me to, but my future destination is yet to be determined. However, Korea will always hold a special place in my heart because it's truly come to be my second home. Good bye Korea, and good luck.

Peace Out

2011-12-27T01:05:00.001-08:00

A Christmas Gift from North Korea...

2011-12-21T04:43:00.000-08:00

With less than a week to go until I hit my 365th day in South Korea, the North Korean dictator Kim Jong-il has died. The immediate result? Escalated tensions in the militaries of both North and South Korea, doomsday prophesies on Fox News and a phone call from my dad urging me to escape before the Korean War resumes in a mushroom cloud of nuclear annihilation. Despite the well-intentioned warnings, I'm a sucker for excitement, so I remain insouciant despite the recent days' events. Should people start getting hurt or my upcoming flight to Hawaii be cancelled however, and my impassive attitude will quickly pull a 180. But with only seven days remaining in the Land of the Morning Calm, I think I'll take my chances.

Essay Entertainment!

2011-11-30T04:40:00.001-08:00

The theme this week? "Describe a terrifying experience you had when you were young." I realize now that the poor children were probably traumatized recalling these memories, but it did make for interesting reading.

"Until now my arm has falled for 3 times. That mean is, not broken but not connected. First experience from my uncle. My uncle pick me on uncle's back. So, uncle pull my arm and my arm has fall. Second, I twist above the chair and fall into the floor. And arm hanged on chair. Finally, third is the most painful. When 11 years old, my family went travel. I have a height acrophobia. Then I wen to bathroom. During go bathroom, I miss the centroid. Furthermore, beside of me there were 50 stairs. Then I fall down the 50 stairs and my arm has fall too."

Poor kid! I feel bad now...

The 38th Parallel

2011-11-21T17:46:00.000-08:00

As the air raid sirens blasted their shrill warning through the chilly morning air—just a routine drill of course—I pondered how strange it must be to grow up in a country remaining under the dark pall of war. Though thriving economically and technologically, South Korea is technically still at war with its big bad brother to the North, as the Korean War armistice agreed upon in 1953 was just a truce. Daily life goes on as usual for South Koreans, the only thought of the bygone hostilities being the occasional drill, the gas masks kept in every subway station and the memories glimpsed in the eyes of the elderly who lived through the horrors.

However, the most vivid peek I have yet experienced of the North's nuclear chokehold on both South Korea and the rest of the world was during my visit to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). Nowhere has tension felt so palpable, has a single gesture or accidental photo threatened an uprising or simply stepping across a line painted on the sidewalk endangered one's life. As I stood in a rigidly enforced line with the other tourists, gawking openly at North Korea merely feet away, I wondered what was passing through the minds of the North Korean soldiers. They stood quiet and still, their uniforms starched to a crisp so rigid I thought they would crack at the seams when their arms raised binoculars. The guards were watching us intently, seemingly daring a tourist to step out of line, to cross the border so that the North would have a valid excuse to pursue force, to push forward, once again invading the South as step one in their quest for world domination. The mood was eery, surreal—birds chirped, the sun struggled to peek through a veil of gray, but the now peaceful (except for mass amounts of barbed wire and landmines) surroundings were fraught with reminders of a bloody past "This is the site of the 1976 Ax Murder," our military escort droned.

Staring across the vaporous border and seeing the massive North Korean flag tower over the propaganda village of Kijong-dong sent a chill down my spine, but not from the nebulous chill rising off the Han River. I shivered from the thought that I was standing only steps away from the blatant communism, dictatorial government and myriad human rights violations that still enshroud North Korea.

Essay of the Week!

2011-11-14T00:23:00.001-08:00

The question this week was, "What jobs in Korea are usually only for men or only for women?"

Here is 10 year old Dong Ho's answer:

"I think the stewardess job is only for the woman. Because the stewardess only necessity the airport, and they (stewardess) are get the kindness, courtesy call, and aviation knowledge, and gravity perfect. They are profitable for the woman and disadvantage for man."

Pepero Day!

2011-11-12T00:27:00.001-08:00

In South Korea, November 11 is not a day to honor the lives of Veterans, but a day allegedly created by the Lotte corporation in order to sell Pepero - a long, thin cookie stick dipped in chocolate. Not since Hallmark created such farces as Secretary's Day and Grandparent's Day has a company so blatantly blindsided the public into mindless consumerism. As the day approaches, convenience stores, grocery stores, even roadside stands, stockpile every size and flavor of the prized confectionery, package it in fancy trimmings and trappings, and rake in the Won shelled out to them by Pepero-crazed Koreans.

Who celebrates Pepero Day? Everyone! Pepero is exchanged between friends, parents and children, students and teachers, bosses and employees, couples...heck, I even received a pack of Pepero from my bank teller when I popped in to make a transfer. There are a few stories as to the origins of Pepero Day. One is that the Lotte company simply created it on 11/11 because the numbers looked like four sticks of Pepero and they figured it was a great way to increase revenue. Another story is that it began in 1994 when friends at a girls' school in Busan, South Korea exchanged Pepero one day to wish each other to "grow as tall and slender as a stick of Pepero." Whatever the actual story is, Koreans are wild about Pepero and the Lotte corporation experiences nearly 60% of its annual Pepero sales during the month of November. At the beginning of this week, my students began telling me that Pepero Day was imminent - a not so subtle reminder that I better bring some to them on 11/11 or else. Over 50 boxes of Pepero later, my students are happy, my wallet is lighter and I never want to eat Pepero again.

A Seoul-ful Sunday

2011-11-01T22:10:00.000-07:00

Whilst on the four hour bus ride to Incheon airport to meet my parents a few weeks ago, my phone cheerfully beeped the latest Google Alert—this one set for Seoul. The headline screamed, pastor of the largest church in the world has been accused of embezzling money donated by the nearly one million parishioner-strong congregation. Terrible about the embezzlement of course, but my train of thought was more like, "Wow! I didn't realize that the largest church in the world is in Seoul. I should check it out!" Having grown up attending church on a weekly basis, I was intrigued by the whole idea, and I figured that my parents would enjoy telling tell their Bible wielding friends about the whole experience, too. The massive structure, located on Yoido Island in the Han River in Seoul, is said to hold 80,000 people at each of the 11 weekly services, but as I looked up from the front steps on Sunday morning it didn't look quite THAT large in my opinion. My parents and I are a tall, blue eyed bunch who were quickly labeled as foreigners, so as we entered the building we were swiftly whisked away to the "foreigner" section to sit with the other outsiders. Headphones built into the pews allowed us to tune into the English interpretation of the sermon. The services are also translated into such languages as Spanish, Chinese, French, Arabic and Indonesian. Because the church is pentecostal (a denomination that I am fairly unfamiliar with), I found it a tad disconcerting when churchgoers began rocking back and forth, shaking their fists and speaking in tongues (or maybe that was just Korean?). Amidst all the mayhem, a gospel choir garbed in traditional robes sang out, accompanied by a full symphony orchestra directed by a congenial Korean wearing a tuxedo. Adding to the heavenly cacophony was an organ with mile high pipes. Dozens of big screen T.V.s ensured that every last parishioner in every last nook and cranny could get a piece of the action. I tried to focus on the sermon, but my headphones were making that horrible microphone squealing sound whenever I moved my head too far to the left, so eventually I gave up and just watched the spectacle unfold.An hour of singing and Korean sermon-ing later, the white suited welcome brigade was back, holding signs on sticks above the crowd, Japanese-tourist-at-Disneyland style, to ensure that us weygooks (foreigners) wouldn't get lost during the mass exodus at the conclusion of the service. Verdict: A semi unusual experience that I simply endured for curiosity's sake and to to be able to say that I visited the largest church in the world.

Essay Entertainment - Halloween Special

2011-11-01T02:59:00.000-07:00

Min Gyu (aka Paul) generally writes the funniest essays, but he must have been busy at math academy, science academy, Korean academy and piano academy this week because the following essay shows that he was obviously slacking in English academy. The assignment? Write a ghost story. Here is Paul's attempt:

The Sound
One day a boy worked to home and he heard a voice.
Hello? Is there anyone? Please get me out.
So the boy followed the sound and saw the sewer, shocked, and he ran away.
The next day he went to that place again, but he could not find anything.
(In bold) In the sewer there was a ghost.

Haha!

The Land of Love

2011-10-24T20:11:00.000-07:00

I must say that Loveland, located on Jeju Island in South Korea, is one of the oddest "amusement" parks I've ever seen—and having the theme park obsessed parents that I do (they practically got married at Disneyland) you can bet I've seen my fair share of these kitschy establishments. But never one like this. Loveland is a far cry from the Mickey Mouse extravaganza that is the Happiest Place on Earth. This monument to love, or shall we say lovemaking, was created (erected?) in 2002 by a group of sex-minded art students from Seoul who thought it would be great fun to create a plethora or erotic statuary in Jeju—aka the honeymoon island—in a somewhat twisted effort to help novice couples become intimately familiar with their newfound conjugal duties. A walk through the park has never been less so, as this park is apt to make one blush at every turn. A giant phallus may pop out of the ground unannounced, fountains cum nipples dot the landscape, and of course there are the countless statues of couples in every possible contortion of sexual throes arranged as tastefully as possible considering the subject matter. Blushing yet? We haven't even gotten to the great hall of dildos and vibrators where decidedly un-shy Korean women attempt to persuade bashful, giggling couples (dressed in matching garb of course!) to purchase these lovemaking accoutrements. Whilst I found the entire experience infinitely amusing, I saw more than a few elderly Korean couples throwing themselves into the interactive exhibits with gusto as well as couples barely old enough to drive exchanging covert glances, wordlessly communicating what was sure to happen back in the privacy of their hotel rooms later that evening—a sight at times I wished could be erased from my retinas. Loveland may not be your typical breed of theme park, but it titillates your senses far more than cotton candy and roller coasters ever could.

Essay Entertainment 2!

2011-10-19T05:53:00.001-07:00

This week's question lent itself to hours of grading entertainment. "Write an email to yourself now from the year 2030. What will your life be like? How will Korea be different? What advice would you give yourself?" I couldn't choose between the two following essays:

Dear Sung Ik,
I think that you are doctor. You graduated Seoul University school. I think you didn't study hardly but you are very lucky so you passed the exam. It is unfair that you are doctor because lots of people studied hardly but they fell exam but you passed. I want to advice you about how to study hard. Don't postpone studying exam. It is terrible habit. You can't study lots of things in a little time. You can fell the exam. Take care.
Love,
Sung Ik

Hello I'm 2030 Young Jin,
My job is doctor. I want to talk to you something. Young Jin you must do study very hard because you get doctor at 2027 so you must do study hard. And 2023 years Korea War 2 so I'm very scared but South is won so I'm very happy. Also, I take many money so I'm rich. I take two Maltese. It's so cute. I have two boys and one gire. I have pretty wife. I'm so happy.

Out of 22 essays, 10 students declared their ardent desire to become doctors. Now, my little student survey is nowhere near statistically accurate, but should little Sung Ik and Young Jin and their friends succeed, wouldn't Korea have a disproportionately high number of doctors in it's midst? I guess we'll just have to get our health examined in Korea in 2030 to find out. ^^ (Korean computer smiley face!)

My Own Backyard

2011-10-18T19:37:00.000-07:00

Though a tiring deviation from my usual 10:00 a.m. wake up call, I've been showing my visiting parents around Daegu. When living in a place, it's only natural that one becomes somewhat accustomed to it, forgetting the city's myriad charms and simply getting stuck in the 9:00 to 5:00 (or in my case, 3:00 to 10:00) rut. My days generally consist of coffee in bed, catching up on emails, writing, sometimes the gym, and then heading off to work, so visitors really shake up the monotony. In the past week, I have seen

extremely beautiful parts of this city that I never even knew existed. Palgongsan (Mountain) being the best example. Though a mere 20 minute taxi ride from central Daegu, the bucolic setting of Palgong felt as though we were hundreds of miles away. Deciduous trees were changing colors en masse, their fiery reds and golds swirling together like some kind of colossal kaleidoscope. Viewing the foliage from the heights of the cable car was lovely, but the scene from the top was the real treat. Korea's fourth largest city evaporated in the smoggy distance, but the air that surrounded us was fresh and crisp, the touchable sky a bright lapis. Despite the impeccable beauty of our surroundings, work loomed heavy on my mind and we were forced to descend. But I will definitely be returning to Palgong soon before the winter ice sets in. Sometimes all it takes is a gentle push and the fresh untarnished eyes of a visitor to enable you to appreciate your own backyard.

Essay Entertainment!

2011-10-07T04:55:00.000-07:00

Some of my students write weekly essays, which I find endlessly amusing. In fact, I have started formulating the essay questions specifically to elicit more humorous essays from my students! I've decided it is high time to post some of the funnier ones for the reading enjoyment of those of you not lucky enough to have throngs of Korean children's grammatical errors to enjoy on a daily basis.

This week's question:
What is your favorite story about your mother or father's childhood?

My favorite response was from Paul, a studious, quiet child who prefers to use an English name. The essay is typed here precisely as he wrote it.

"My favorite story about my father's childhood is when he was sixth grade. One they we was doing a gym class and they were making a formation. I think it was a pyramid formation. My father was at the bottom of the formation and he needed to go to the bathroom, but he couldn't. So he holed it. (few minutes late) He couldn't holed it anymore, so he did it on his pants. After the gym class, his classmates said to his teacher. Teacher, there is a bad smell somewhere. I think somebody excused to it's pants. In lunch time, he went to his house and changed his clothes."

Stay tuned for another essay next Friday!

High Tea

2011-09-21T22:33:00.000-07:00

Although I consider myself a seasoned world traveler, I have never steeped myself into the otherworldly beauty of a proper tea plantation. Many of these impeccably manicured hillsides can be found in the hills of such exotic locales as India or China, so when I learned that this type of aromatic landscape existed within my adopted nation, I promptly departed on a bus four hours south to view the terraced grandeur. Chuseok, the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving, is a time when Koreans nationwide make a yearly pilgrimage to their ancestral town to worship and offer heartfelt gratitude to their forefathers. Lovely tradition, terrible traffic. However, with a bit of advanced planning, Steve and I were able to to reach our much anticipated destination. The Daehan Dawon green tea plantation in Boseong did not disappoint. The day brooded heavily with unshed rain, causing a mystical gray backdrop for the cascading emerald fields. Wisps of fog twirled and danced around the budding tea leaves from the rocky crags above, creating a veritable Shangri-La on the mountain trails below. The thick mist enveloped my skin, and I imagined that mixed with the effusive fumes of the tea plants, the resulting sweat created an almost green tea sauna-like experience for my skin. All those minerals and vitamins coating my pores made me feel a bit better about my ultra shimmery appearance in the muggy coastal mountains. However, on another note, it is really quite difficult to think too much about one's self and one's personal, minute problems amidst the relentless majesty of one of nature's most beautiful landscapes. It certainly was not lost on me that I should set aside my earthly worries and let my being be absorbed in the energy of the moment—an intensely green, rich moment that has found a prominent place in the ever-growing photo album of my mind.

Woo Hoo for the World Champs!

2011-09-06T05:12:00.001-07:00

The world may never have heard of Daegu, Korea - until last week that is. August 27 through September 4 saw Daegu as host to the 2011 IAAF World Championship Games. I am dreadfully un-savvy regarding sports in general (except baseball!) so I didn't really understand the significance of the event until my ever patient boyfriend explained to me that this sports fantasia was on par with something like the Olympics or the World Cup. I could hardly believe an event of that caliber would be taking place in my seemingly obscure adopted city. But sure enough, in the months preceding the World Champs, giant billboards began plastering the sides of high-rise apartment buildings, larger than life cutouts of renowned sprinters and hurdlers popped up around the city and the buzz of the upcoming events hugged the front page of Daegu's print media.
Time has passed and the games have now come and gone. Watching double amputee Oscar Pistorius run on his blades and being there when Usain Bolt win gold in the 200 meters and the relay were probably the sports enthusiast's highlights (no one talks about Bolts 100 meter DQ - too painful!), but for me the experience of the multicultural crowd coming together to support their respective nations through athletics was my take away. Daegu may have previously been an unknown, but after these events, the city has been thoroughly and prominently thrust into the limelight.

Ode to an iPhone

2011-08-17T03:14:00.000-07:00

Let me just say that the experience of procuring an iPhone in a foreign land is a slightly trying one, but the extremely difficult means had quite a successful end and my little white iPhone is my new BFF!
Oh the apps! From Instagram, a cool photo app that takes retro looking pics to my translation app that assists me daily during my life in Korea, I constantly wax rhapsodic to my poor boyfriend's chagrin. I've only been in possession of this miracle of technology for a few short weeks, so my squeals of excitement and delight at each new function I discover are still reverberating in the unfortunate ears of those around me. However, the iPhone has so much to offer that I doubt my wonder for this delightful device will diminish anytime soon.

What a Cute Couple!

2011-07-20T06:36:00.000-07:00

A strange phenomenon exists in Korea that I have yet to see or hear of elsewhere in the world. Couplewear is a fabulous Korean tradition and truly an entertaining sight to see. What is couple-wear exactly? Well, it involves a freshly minted love couple that has decided to declare their relationship status to the world by dressing in identical outfits. From head to toes, every aspect of the ensemble is donned in his and hers models. Watching for couplewear on the streets has become one of my favorite pastimes in the ROK, and though it may sound voyeuristic, it has actually started to feel like a serious anthropological experiment—to use for my writing endeavors of COURSE!

The best examples of couples donning matching duds that I have witnessed is at airports such as Busan, Jeju Island and Cebu in the Philippines—all favorite honeymoon destinations of the newly significantly othered. Always I wonder what the poor boyfriend/fiance/husband's reaction was when the Mrs. came home with twin polo shirts and track pants, but then I remember that Korea is a country in which the male population regularly dons purses and capri pants, and I think that the couple-wear idea could very well have been warmly received or even instigated by the, er, masculine one of the pair.

More pictures of Korean love couples are forthcoming!

Can't get enough...

2011-07-06T07:40:00.000-07:00

The constant inanities that my students utter leave me in stitches on a daily basis. Here is a crop of the conversations that go on in the unsuspecting classrooms of Hanvit English Academy.

Me: What animal are you most afraid of?
Student: I afraid of chicken.
Me: Why are you afraid of chickens?
Student: Because they have a largeeee activity ability.
Me: What do you mean?
Student: Like move very many.
Me: But why is that scary?
Student: Because when chicken run and go like this (student squints his eyes, purses his lips and flaps his arms wildly) they scared. Chicken attack me and kick!
Me: You kicked a chicken?
Student: No teacher! Chicken kick me!

And in another class:

Student: Teacher! Where is your yellow hair?
Me: I dyed it a little bit darker. You don't like it?
Student: (Sharp intake of breath) Oh no, teacher! We like yellow hair because it look like Barbie.

And upon grading essays, I came across a clever child trying to sweet talk me into a better grade:

"Pretty Leslie teacher, sorry for writing too short essay. I promise write longer next time."

What will I hear uttered in broken English tomorrow? Lord only knows, but the mere prospect of it makes me want to stand with paper and pen poised, waiting for the next blogable quip.

Hair-tastrophe!

2011-06-24T23:18:00.000-07:00

Woe is me! I suppose this is a sign from the universe telling me to be less vain when there are people in the world starving and missing in tsunami's and such, or it could just possibly be a sign that one should not try to maintain blonde bombshell status in a country filled with a raven haired population. Anyhow, my previously golden locks have been strangely morphed into an extremely unusual ashy brown with a few hideous skunk-like stripes of bleach blonde thrown in to make the entire look even more fetching (insert sarcasm here). And all I wanted were a few simple highlights! Off to the Philippines in six hours, so until I return, I will have to bear the burden of my bad decision for at least a week. I should have just listened to my lovely boyfriend who tells me I am beautiful and shouldn't mess with my hair in the first place. Curse you, vanity!

Note: I cannot bear to post a photo with this blog post.

Oh my Seoul! - Part 1

2011-06-21T20:53:00.000-07:00

For a city with a population of over 10 million people, to me Seoul seems highly approachable and even intimate. Though the mathematical probability of randomly running into the same person twice is positively miniscule, there are sections of Seoul that seem suburban, perhaps even verging on quaint. Fast paced and modern intermingle with tradition and history to create the ultimate city of juxtapositions.

My favorite part of Seoul bar none is the Cheonggyecheon river area. This manmade waterway constructed in 2005 is an urban dream come true. Winding its way through Seoul's otherwise concrete city center is this oasis of cascading cool water and lush greenery. Families stroll leisurely along the banks, children frolic in the shallow pools and even a heron dips in flight to enjoy the serenity of the scene. Dunking my feet into this tingling stream was quite possibly one of the most refreshing moments in my recent history, particularly after a sultry morning of sightseeing at the dusty palace.

Speaking of the palace, Gyeongbokgung is a sight to behold. Built by King Taejo over 500 years ago, the palace includes many ornate temples and living quarters decorated with vibrant roof tiles that are prime examples of traditional architecture from the Joseon Dynasty. But after a while, even the most architecturally minded person may feel that the palace structures become monotonous, so it was refreshing to come across a tranquil lily pond, a pavilion situated on a small island in the center. The postcard perfect scene reflecting neatly on the glassy surface made me think that this was the time to langour on a nearby bench and revel in the tangible history of the place. Oh to be a lady in waiting of the past whose entire existence was to wander around this beautiful scene and just look pretty.

And of course, as on any trip, I have to investigate the shopping like some kind of consumeristic Nancy Drew. Insadong captured my shopping sensibilities from the moment I stepped into its shady, tree lined streets. Hats, scarves, jewelry, fans, postcards, souvenirs and traditional Korean handicrafts attract visitors to this artsy neighborhood. I would have spent all day meandering the many shops and street stalls were I not with my friends George and Steve who were not so keen on the idea, but kindly put up with me stopping every 10 feet or so "just to look for a minute." Nevertheless, I definitely plan to visit Insadong again asap to get some hard core shopping done.

Next time - Seoul's famous Namsan Tower and the foreigner district of Itaewon!

The Joy of Korean Inanities

2011-06-20T18:32:00.000-07:00

I have nearly reached the halfway point of my initial year in Korea, and I have yet to tire of the tremendously off the wall and often indecipherable sayings I constantly read on paper products (mostly my student's notebooks), store signs, shop windows, and anything else that may have the capacity for English words to be printed on it. The utterly nonsensical phrases plod on with nary a concern for coherent content. They are written in English, and Korea-wise, that should be enough. Case in point.

"Today you can find this, in the Mokambo's espresso. A taste and an aroma which smells of memories, the sun and loved work." - The slogan of Mokambo, one of the myriad coffee shops in my neighborhood

"Just a day, just an ordinary day. Thinking outside the box is to think differently, unconventionally, or from a new perspective. This phrase often refers to novel, creative and smart thinking." - Korean notebook cover

"A life without love, without the presence of the beloved is nothing but a mere magic-lantern show. We draw out slide, swiftly tiring of each and pushing it back to make haste for the next." - Korean notebook cover

Poetic? Sometimes. Sensible? Never. Hilarious? Always.

Teacher, I am genius!

2011-05-31T18:55:00.001-07:00

I've never been a violent person, but I must say that being a teacher has caused me to strongly consider that old "spare the rod, spoil the child" business. But for as many of my students that irk my patience, there are at least five that I simply adore. Among my favorite students is Woo Sung. A scrawny middle schooler that slightly resembles ET and has a voice that sounds exactly like Gollum from Lord of the Rings. The things that come out of that boy's mouth make my eyes water and my mouth twitch from the sheer effort of trying to keep a straight face—I don't want to give him a complex after all! His favorite thing to say is "Teacher, I am genius," and one time in the middle of class he decided to make an announcement, "Teacher, I am gay." But the best part is when this strange creature of a child sings! During class one day he randomly declared that he had a song to share.

"In the river, tadpole swimming. One leg made, two leg made, pulsating, pulsating, frog made!"

Another of my favorite conversations with this kid had me thinking he was some kind of child prostitute. Sounds bizarre, but let me explain. Woo Sung told me that he wanted to go to Harvard. I asked why he chose that school. He said, "Teacher, I am very smart and genius and I am very expensive boy. I have expensive body price." Baffled, I asked what a body price was. "Teacher, how smart, how handsome and how genius is body price." And there you have it...oh Woo Sung. Is it bad to use my students as writing fodder?

Korea Sparkling

2011-05-01T18:48:00.000-07:00

After spending a long and dismal winter wrapped in layer upon worsted layer, sliding to and fro on icy sidewalks and dodging the deadly acid rain that fell upon us from the aftermath of the Japanese nuclear disaster, the sweet breath of spring has finally blown it's glorious warmth upon Korea. The sun is shining, the birds are singing, but the best part is that the cherry blossoms are inexorably blooming. There are a few places in the world that claim to have a corner on the cherry blossom market—Japan in all it's imperial glory, Washington DC (which first received it's luscious cherry trees as a token of friendship from the Land of the Rising Sun), but Korea, though relatively unknown on the tourist trail can easily hold it's own in this flowery competition. Particularly lovely are the blossoms found in Gyeoungju, the ancient Korean capital. This provincial town boasts a UNESCO World Heritage Site—the Bulguksa Buddhist temple complex which includes Seokguram Grotto—an awe-inspiring statue of Buddha carved into the sheer rock face of a cliff a la Mt. Rushmore. Both beautiful sights on their own, each is enhanced tenfold when ensconced with the pink and white fluffiness of the cherry blossoms. But viewing these blossoms is a tricky business. Go too soon and the buds haven't yet developed into all their rosy glory, but too late and the slightest wind or rain may cause the delicate petals to fall to the ground in a graceful blush of snow. Fortunately for me, I got there just in time to take in the gossamer beauty before it faded into the soft memory of spring.

My Teacher Hits Me

2011-03-30T18:46:00.000-07:00

In Korea, teachers are the disciplinarians, not the parents. Thus as a teacher I have been told that it is perfectly acceptable to use whatever means necessary to gain total control of a rambunctious child. Though I have not embraced this form of discipline, it does not mean that some Korean teachers in my Hagwan don't carry a stick to smack a roving hand a la Catholic school circa 1950. Many of my students tell me stories of their public school teachers walloping a wayward student for the slightest infraction—no wonder most Korean children are the silent type.

At Hanvit Academy, the students (and teachers) live in constant fear and terror of our Vice President, Boo Won Jang Nim. He prowls the halls searching for any sign of misconduct so he can swoop down and inflict a harsh punishment upon the perpetrator. One sideways glance from him leaves even the most stalwart Korean teacher shaken, so you can imagine that us foreign teachers are quaking in our boots. At times I have heard his shouts resonating down the halls, and seen the crying aftermath of a slap across the hand or a particularly potent bout of yelling. If a student is particularly deserving of punishment, they are required to stand outside the classroom for the remainder of class, arms straight up in the air the entire time.

Fortunately, during my three months here, Boo Won Jang Nim had never directed his wrath at one of my students, but the inevitable happened last week. As I was listening to one student's speaking homework, another student in my class mistakenly laid his head down on the desk. Instead of immediately telling the student to sit up straight, I erroneously chose to finish listening to the other student's answer before I chastised the napper. At that particular moment, the door flew open and loud, harsh Korean shouting clapped down on the classroom like thunder. My heart started racing, the poor kid looked like he was going to cry and the rest of the class visibly paled. I wished I knew what was being said, and I even more fervently wished he would go away. A shouting Korean man is truly terrifying! When he was done, he looked at me, said, "Excuse me," and walked out, leaving me to finish class as if nothing unusual had just happened. The next day I got called into the Vice President's office and questioned as to why I let the student lay down his head. I patiently explained my reasoning and was given a lecture about always maintaining complete control. Not wanting to be shouted at, I bowed my head, said, "I'm sorry, it will not happen again," and let bygones be bygones as they say, because when at Hanvit, Boo Won Jang Nim is always right.

I Feel Fat

2011-03-28T19:17:00.001-07:00

Shopping in Korea can be a disheartening experience for any one who is, well, not Korean. My friends and fellow teachers Emily and Annie and I discovered this sad fact last weekend while on a shopping excursion in downtown Daegu. We hit the underground mall with high hopes that we would find the perfect outfits to wear to a party we were attending that evening, but soon after we began our buying blitz we were shut down. It all started when we wanted to try on a few items, and walked unsuspectingly towards the fitting room (there WAS a fitting room mind you). As we approached the ramshackle curtain in the corner, a Korean salesperson popped magically out of thin air, effectively blocking the fitting room from our grasp.

"We would like to try something on." We stated cautiously, never sure since we entered Korea what the reaction may be.
"No." The Korean woman said, holding up her arms to form an "X."
"But there is a fitting room right there." We began, wary of the reasoning.
"No," she said again, "too small. Stretch." She faltered with her English, but her pantomiming was clear enough. She was insinuating that we were too fat and that we may stretch out the clothing in the process of trying it on.

Insulted, we left the shop with our self esteem plunging and decided to look for shoes. Easier said than done when you wear a size 9. Emily and Annie were fine, being as they are small of feet, but Korea does not cater to tall people, and thus after being told an emphatic "No," (again with the arms in that negative "X" gesture) when I asked if they carried any size over a 7, I decided it was time to shop for something more innocuous. A new purse anyone?

Beautiful Gyeongju

2011-03-08T17:22:00.000-08:00

Deciding that it was high time I got out of Daegu to see some culture, my friend Ryan and I caught a bus out of town for a day trip to Gyeongju. A mere 45 minutes away, Gyeongju seemed the perfect place to soak in the history of Korea. Before I came here, I am a bit ashamed to admit, I did no research. The sum total exists in what I read in the Lonely Planet guide on the plane from San Francisco to Seoul. Needless to say I was intrigued to find that Gyeongju was Korea's ancient capital city during the Shilla Dynasty (57 BC to 943 AD), and though the population is now around 200,000, it topped at during its glory days at over one million people.

Ryan and I started at the Tumuli tombs—underground burial chambers covered with earth to create otherwordly mounds on the otherwise flat landscape. Ancient royalty were buried in the tombs along with their most precious possessions, akin to the Pharaohs of Egypt. Our tourist map then guided us to the lovely Anapji pond which was the site of a pleasure garden for Korea's early kings, then we walked on to the Gyeongju National Museum which was impressive in its scope and scale. The giant Emille Bell—among the largest bell ever crafted in Asia—was a highlight.

Sightseeing is tiresome business, and we were starving. Deciding that our day of culture called for a culturally appropriate meal, it was on to find a Korean restaurant where we could get some good old bipimbap. But that was not to come to pass. We walked for ages, unable to find Korean food in Korea of all places! When we did finally happen upon a place, the menu was solely in Korean and we had to choose our food blindly—if you know me, this is something you would be shocked that I would even consider! Two bowls of steaming soup arrived, clear in color, with floating chunks of a grayish, fatty meat. Ryan is a vegetarian and I am just picky, but we gave it a try. Gelatinous blobs of fat floated on the surface, and the texture of the meat was one that should simply not exist. We decided it was the entrails of some unfortunate creature and decided to skip the soup and concentrate on the soju instead. Half an hour later we abandoned our cultural experience and grabbed some pizza from the Paris Baguette.

Up Next: "My teacher hits me" and other stories of discipline in Korean schools

To market, to market

2011-03-02T06:59:00.000-08:00

Nothing makes Asia come alive and accost my senses more than a raucous outdoor market. Every sense of my being is titillated by the fragrant, kaleidoscopic and bustling surroundings. Old women as wrinkled as dried apple dolls perch on the sidewalk displaying oranges, brick sized blocks of dried bean paste and even buckets of squirming live eels, while countless other vendors line serpentine alleys hawking dried squid, faux Louis Vuittons and Korean made products of every persuasion. Food vendors stir boiling cauldrons of soup boasting completely unrecognizable ingredients while others wash dishes in highly questionable tubs of murky brown water that made me have a sudden craving for Pepto Bismol.

I spent a very enjoyable Saturday afternoon exploring the intricate latticework that is Seomun Market in Daegu. From what I had thus experienced in Korea, the country certainly has Asian tendencies (being in Asia after all), but on the whole seemed extremely Westernized—until I stepped foot in Seomun that is. Sure the market didn't boast boiled snakes and bubble tea like the night markets in Vietnam, Thailand or Taiwan, but it did feel as close to an authentic Asian market that I have come to thus far during my two month jaunt in Korea.

Products of every kind can be found in every nook of this circuitous bazaar, but the Henry Ford quote about black cars pops into my mind and I alter it to fit my situation, "You can buy products from any country as long as it's Korea." My fellow teacher/friend/explorer Emily and I had been feeling the shopping urge building up for a couple of weeks and suddenly it breaks free as we spot boxer shorts printed like a 10,000 won bank note. Next, it's a pair of charming rose print throw pillows for me, a pair of rain boots for the supposedly monsoon-like spring for her. We constantly get distracted by the ever present odor of waffles permeating the air (Koreans love waffles), and then by a hat shop purveying every style of chapeau imaginable. We try on a few and take pictures of ourselves—Asian style (Koreans also love to photograph themselves doing everything under the sun).

The afternoon presses in and simultaneously the crowd in the market thickens into a gelatinous glob, each movement rippling out like a stone thrown into a still pond. Asian culture is not big on personal space. Taking a wallop by a thronging crowd is not our idea of a pleasant afternoon, so we decide to catch the subway back to our respective apartments and call it a day at Seomun Market.

Next time: To eat or not to eat dog, that is the question; or becoming immersed in Korean culture

Bang-in!

2011-02-28T06:27:00.000-08:00

You haven't officially experienced Korea until you have visited a jimjilbang. These public bath houses contain hot pools, cold pools, saunas, massage rooms, a sleeping room, cafe, nail salon, etc. that puts the ancient Roman baths to shame!

On my first visit, I was slightly unsure of what to expect other than that I heard the mode de rigeur was to go au naturel—strange for a country that seems surprisingly modest in many other ways. So after steeling myself to the idea, I stripped down to my birthday suit in the ladies locker room and walked through the double doors into the steamy wonderland that was the spa room. Scores of naked Korean women lounged like mermaids in the healing waters, while others scrubbed each other's backs while still others sat at rows of small vanity tables washing their hair, brushing their teeth (a Korean obsession) and even doing laundry. As the tallest, blondest and whitest among the spa goers, all activity ceased as I entered, but my novelty wore off after a few minutes and the women resumed where they left off, thus leaving me to pursue relaxation in peace.

I dripped out of every pore in the grotto-like sauna, wished I were getting a cucumber body scrub like some of those lucky women were (next time!) and languished between the hot and cold plunge pools Fin style. All this relaxation was hunger-inducing, so I pulled on my jimjilbang issued prison-orange jumpsuit and meandered to the cafeteria where I indulged in a lovely ramen—practically the national food of Korea. I had no need to spend the night here, although many people do just that and use jimjilbangs specifically for this purpose—a la a heated room with floor mats. I did decide that it may not be a bad place to stay should the situation call for it in the future.

The cost of this delightful day in Daegu? A mere 7,000 won, which is slightly more than $7. A small price to pay for a little piece of Korean heaven.

Next time: Seomun Market, where you can purchase anything under the sun—as long as it's made in Korea

Please pass the soju

2011-02-22T05:59:00.001-08:00

A Korean work dinner is one of those experiences that you love to hear tales of, but you hope to never actually attend. In theory, it sounds fantastic—a work sponsored meal at an upscale Korean restaurant where everything (including the bar tab) is on the boss. But the truth is that it is a tedious, obligatory gathering where segregation between the Koreans and foreigners is routine and the only contact between the two is when your boss pours you glass after glass of soju (the infamous Korean rice liquor).
Being as many of the foreign teachers apt to be culturally adept, we know that to turn down a shot of soju would be disrespectful and perhaps cause uncomfortable office tensions. Thus the table begins to morph from uptight, work-addicted Koreans into a happy-go-lucky-type crowd. By this time, it is guaranteed to be at least 2:00 a.m., because if you happen to work at a Hagwon (private English academy) like I do and don't get off work until 10:00 p.m., everything happens late every night. But to be with one's egotistical, inebriated boss and non-English speaking co-workers until 2:00 a.m. is another story. Finally the bondaegi, galbi and mandu run out and I was hoping to leave, but of course was told that I could not do so until the Vice President of the school made the first move towards the door. As we bid our time and bit our tongues, he continues with his soju-induced Korean rambling. Finally he stands, and everyone scrambles to follow, stumbling off in the hopes to catch a few hours sleep before doing it all again the next day.

Next time: The Korean spa experience! Visiting a jimjilbang

Mouths of Babes

2011-02-10T18:19:00.000-08:00

Oh the things I hear from my students! I am constantly trying to hide my laughter during class because as an English teacher, I must not insult their efforts to speak the language. But seriously, when I hear some of this stuff it is absolutely impossible to contain my mirth. Here are a few of the quotes the kids had when asked if they prefer eating at home or at a restaurant:

"I very like to eating beef, but these days the animal virus is come into fashion."

"If we eat at restaurant, we don't know what is inside of food. But at home we can eat comfortably because the foods are made by our mom. Mom will not cook with poisoness things, but in restaurant it could be cooked poisoness."

"I like to eat outside because many kids like me have mother and that mother can't cook very tasty or even just tasty, so they don't want to eat food that their mom made."

And here is one of my favorites—the student was asked whether he thinks people should have more than two children:

"People think laying children is important thing."

Oops, was supposed to write about Korean work dinner...that will be next time!

Kickin it in Wulai

2011-02-09T19:22:00.000-08:00

Lunar New Year (also called Soellal or Chinese New Year) is huge in Asia. It's a time when millions of people flock from major metropolises to small pastoral towns to visit their ancestral homes. But being non-Asian (and not in possession of an ancestral home) did not stop me from joining in on this mass exodus! Oh no! I packed my bags and flew the two and a half hour flight to Taipei, Taiwan to visit my sister and her family.

Taiwan is a beautiful island, almost Tolkien in it's lovely lushness. A day at the hot springs in the mountain town of Wulai was the highlight of my time on this island nation. A public bus from the Taipei main station winds its way up a serpentine road clinging to the side of the verdant volcanic mountains that surround the capital. Between the trees, glimpses of a cascading river, waterfalls and patches of sun peeking through the clouds made me feel like I had been magically transported to a tropical paradise. The folk village of Wulai is a charming place indeed, with scores of vendors lining the streets purveying everything from a whole roasted pig to sweet corn on the cob. The smell of sizzling sausages and damp earth permeated my nostrils as I took in the bustle of the crowd and the beauty of my surroundings.

Although the vendors of Wulai are an attraction in their own right, what really draws people to this mountain enclave is the volcanically heated water coursing through crags and seeping into the many hot springs hotels lining the river. A room can be rented for two hours, during which one soaks up the piping water to the heart's content. I sank in, letting my skin absorb the healing nutrients and trying to calculate how much I would be charged for a tiny bottle of this volcanic miracle serum back in the states. A quick jump into the cold pool Finnish style rounded out the spa experience.

Verdict: My skin looked noticeably dewier and more vibrant after the Wulai experience. Was it due to the hot springs? Maybe. Or maybe it was just being on vacation. Either way. Wulau = Relaxation.

Next time: A traditional Korean dinner with my Korean co-workers. Oh the soju!

Do you speak English?

2011-01-31T19:50:00.000-08:00

The sheer abundance of poorly translated signs and phrases really keeps me in high spirits. There is no doubt that once I step out of my door, I will be constantly entertained. Here are a few of my favorites that I have seen or heard around town:

"Experience is a comb that nature gives to men when they are bald."

"I like you very much just as you are. When you look up into the blue sky you will find a will find a great big smile through the clouds. Smiles are what fills us with delight and brings us back to our good old days."

"Happy Diet Club. Where friends of good nutrition meet every day."

Next up, a special post as I celebrate the Lunar New Year holiday in Taiwan!

Baby It's Cold Outside

2011-01-27T07:03:00.000-08:00

Since I had the immense good fortune of growing up in sunny California, I didn’t get to experience those frigid winters that so many people around the world must bravely endure. You know, shoveling snow, frostbite, spit that freezes before it hits the ground? What’s to miss, right? Wrong. After spending a few weeks in a subzero climate (it feels like it anyway), I have found that us warm weather girls are—unbeknownst to us—experiencing a serious fashion deficit. Our sisters in colder climes get to experiment with heavy duty scarves, a kaleidoscopic array of gloves, coats so warm that they could have saved the Donner party and my personal new obsession—earmuffs.

I have seen the earmuff trend in all its glory here in South Korea—a country which is surprisingly more fashionable than it gets credit for. Stalls purveying the cozy balls of fluff abound on every street corner here in Daegu, and for a few extra thousand won, one can upgrade from a simple black or white pair to one that seemingly stepped from the wardrobe of Cruella Deville. I just bought my second pair in a nice rabbit fur. Faux of course, dahlings. Asians rock the street fashion, and earmuffs are donned by every woman under the age of 30. Verdict: they keep my ears from freezing while allowing me to look après ski chic. Sold.

Next time: Snacktime! An adventure in Korean cuisine.

Snacktime!

2011-01-27T06:41:00.000-08:00

Anyone who has ever eaten even one meal with me knows that I may be the pickiest eater on the face of the planet. With that said, I expected to starve in Korea, or at least come down with whatever illnesses ensue if one's diet consists entirely of rice. Fortunately, this has turned out not to be the case, and I have eaten a few things that may surprise you.

1. Bondaegie - dried silkworm larvae. This peanut sized treat is typically served as a bar snack. Sure it looks like a nut, but upon closer inspection it is most certainly an insect. I have tried one and will absolutely never do it again. Although the taste is foul—a bit like eating dirt—it's not unbearable. What caused me to go into a gagging fit was the gooey explosion that you get with the first chomp, then the fact that as you continue to chew, you can actually feel each of the larvae's body parts separating inside your mouth. Shudder! Grossness factor: 10 out of 10!

2. Squid ink pizza. In many places, this black-crusted pizza would probably be a delicacy and cost an arm and a leg for its "luxury" status. Here in Daegu, my favorite Italian place handed out coupons for a free one (free gifts in Korea are called "servicee"), so my friends and I decided to give it a shot. Despite the crust being black, it simply tasted like very salty cheese pizza. I couldn't really get the vision of a squid out of my head while I was eating it though, thus my reason for not liking it.

3. Bibimbap happens to be my favorite Korean food that I have tried thus far. It's simply a bowl of rice with a medley of toppings which one mixes together with a spicy pepper paste. Toppings include carrots, seaweed, bracken, sprouts, fried egg and mushrooms (which I pick off of course).

4. Kimchi is a Korean staple food served at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Made out of fermented cabbage, it smells like soggy feet. 'Nuf said.

5. Galbi is the most fun in the sense that eating it is an entire experience in itself. Also known as Korean barbeque, Galbi restaurants are easy to find as the tables all contain a miniature grill at the center. An array of side dishes (including bean paste, the ever-popular kimchi, radishes, garlic and lettuce) parade out along with a large piece of meat that sizzles up in front of your very eyes. Grab your chopsticks and dig in because it's a fight to the finish for the choicest bits.

You need CAT Scan

2011-01-25T06:12:00.001-08:00

My most ardent wish is that I never become ill or injured enough to have to visit a Korean hospital again! I arrived in Korea with a cold that I had since before Thanksgiving— I was the proud owner of one of those bone rattling coughs that you dread waking up to because you know it could shatter your internal organs at any moment. With that weighing heavily upon my mind, I woke up about 10 days after my arrival in Daegu with a hideous drooping eyelid and a large ping pong sized lump on my throat—both on the left side. After my loveliest sister claimed that it was a conjoined twin, I decided to check it out online and figured that maybe it was a swollen lymph node? Whatever it was, it was quite alarming and I decided to go to the hospital for a diagnosis. Ashley (my BFF) was down visiting for the weekend from Anseong, the city she is teaching in, so she and I set out for medical treatment.

The first clinic we tried did not have an English speaker in the house, so they conveyed (through a most rudimentary form of charades) that there was another hospital that foreigners usually went to. Lo and behold, the foreigner clinic was closed at this other hospital, so we were directed to the ER. Now don't get any visions of an ordinary ER in your mind's eye. Imagine people laying on stretchers scattered throughout hallways, holding their own IVs, some screaming, some bleeding, some vomiting, but all lined up like sardines with nary a curtain in between. They led me to a stretcher—the only one that did have a curtain in fact—and left me there. I think they were trying to determine what to do with the tall white girl in the corner—such an enigma! Finally a studious young Korean medical student meandered over and asked me in very broken English what seemed to be the matter. I explained VERY SLOWLY, but I could still see that the veil of misunderstanding was pulled over his eyes. He must have decided that the best course of action was to give me an IV. All the Korean patients had IVs, so why not me? A nurse (or nursing student by the feel of it) gave me an IV by poking the back of my hand violently. She then moved to the crook of my elbow when she determined she could not get a good vein elsewhere. I wouldn't know until a few days later that this inhumane practice would cause me GIANT purple bruises! Nothing was dripping from the IV, and I pointed this out, but apparently that was not a problem because everyone just nodded and went on their way. Finally I was alerted that I must give a urine sample (while holding my IV—no IV holders here!). In the bathroom, I found there was no small door in the wall, but that I must carry my pee in a cup through the whole hospital, as there was no restroom in the ER. I walked past my ER neighbors—a vomitous old woman, a drunken toothless man bleeding from the head and a poor screaming girl receiving grisly injections in her stomach—back to my corner.

No one came for me for a very long time, so I laid down and closed my eyes in a fervid attempt to go to my happy place. I was awoken at some point by the studious young doctor who had first seen me. "You need CAT scan" he said tersely. "No! Too expensive!" I said. I did not have my health insurance at the time you see and had simply come in to try to get some antibiotics for my cold/lump situation. He abandoned me again and said, "This very expensive hospital. University hospital and ER." After that he pulled out my IV and led me to the waiting room. I guess I didn't look as though I could afford such fine surroundings. I was told to pay, my grand total for this "expensive" visit was about $200—far less than a 3 hour hospital visit stateside would cost! I was then instructed to wait for my medication—at last! But after waiting about an hour, a semi-English speaking nurse took pity on me and asked around. It turned out they had given my medication to the wrong patient. Now that inspires confidence! I finally received a small army of pills that came with nary an explanation, simply placed in tiny bags that said breakfast, lunch and dinner. I dutifully took each tiny pack over the next few days, and lo and behold, my ailments receded and I now feel nearly 100%. Lesson learned? Do not go to a Korean hospital unless your life is truly at stake.

Next time: Baby it's Cold Outside—a look at winter street fashion in Daegu.

Month No. One

2011-01-24T07:38:00.000-08:00

Nearly one month has come and gone since I arrived in South Korea to teach English for a year. Despite everyone I know commenting "Is that safe?" upon my admission that I was coming to this country amidst news that North Korea had launched missiles on the South, everything feels perfectly safe here (except maybe the cabinets full of gas masks in the subways). To Seoul I have not yet ventured. I'm residing in Daegu, a prosperous city in the southern region that boasts over two million residents. It can't shake a stick at Seoul's ten million, but I am sure it is much more peaceful here.

I work at a hagwan (a private academy) where the kids go after public school. No one could ever accuse a Korean of ignorance. These kids study about 12 hours a day and the most common response to the question "How are you?" is "So so. I so tired, teacher." I feel for the poor kids, but it is not my place to judge the modus operandi of an entire society. I am settling in as a teacher and have started keeping a notebook of the hilarious things that come out of my kids' mouths. Lost in translation added to kids' say the darndest things equals twice the hilarity!

So many adventures have happened already, I decided I must get my blog underway. I miss you all and will be posting often, so keep tabs! Next time—Korean Hospital adventure.

xoxo,
Leslie